The passion for travel and exploration is a universal one, but in this era of stress and materialism, finding time to escape from the demands of daily life and witness the majestic mountains, rivers, lakes, waterfalls, springs, and glaciers created by Allah, and to marvel at the lush forests and pastures, is a rare opportunity. Naran and Kaghan are dream destinations for many, a land where the romance of Prince Saif-ul-Maluk and Fairy Bad-e-Jamal is spread all around. I had longed to see this imaginary paradise for years, but time constraints and a lack of resources made it difficult. However, August 2017 was the fortunate time when I had the opportunity to visit this earthly heaven. I must say that words cannot fully capture the breathtaking beauty and the refreshing experiences I encountered there. The mesmerizing landscapes, the enchanting ambiance, and the velvety green meadows of Shogran, the picturesque view of Lake Saif-ul-Maluk, the excitement of the Kunhar Pass, and the playful game of hide-and-seek from Balakot to Lake Lulusar cannot be adequately described. Words fall short and the feelings and emotions are boundless. To truly appreciate this beauty, one must take the time and spend some resources to visit this region. The purpose of writing this blog is to help you make the most of your time if you visit there. We planned a three-day trip but due to unfamiliarity with the area and a lack of time, we missed several picnic spots, which I regret. This blog aims to provide some basic details for future visitors so they can better utilize their time and enjoy the heavenly valleys of Naran and Kaghan to the fullest within a modest budget.
Kaghan Valley
Kaghan Valley extends from Balakot to Babusar Top, covering an area of 800 square kilometers. Balakot is the gateway to this valley, which ranges in elevation from 7500 feet (2134 meters) to 4173 meters above sea level, with a length of approximately 150 kilometers. The valley is named after the town of Kaghan, a beautiful settlement in itself. The valley is home to various communities including Gujar (the majority), Swati, Sadat, Mughal, Kashmiri, and Kohistani people, and languages spoken here include Hindko, Gujri, Pashto, Punjabi, Saraiki, and Urdu. Popular games in the valley include Kabaddi, Shikai, and cricket. Major crops are wheat, corn, rice, peas, potatoes, moong, and cauliflower, but the arable land is only 5% of the total area, resulting in low production. Fruits like walnuts, apples, apricots, and jujubes are grown, with walnuts being particularly abundant. Along the road from Balakot to Naran, walnut trees line the route, and in August, these trees bear fruit. Walnut husks are used for various purposes. The valley’s forests are home to cedar, pine, acacia, and other trees. An intriguing plant called “Chao” is found here, which is said to make people faint upon smelling it. This might explain the sense of euphoria and intoxication experienced by tourists in the area. The valley also has a variety of wildlife including horses, mules, donkeys, monkeys, leopards, wild boar, bears, golden pheasants, deer, partridges, nightingales, musk deer, and pheasants. The valley is rich in local culture, folklore, music, and wisdom. The tales of Darshi Munshee, Prince Saif-ul-Maluk, and Fairy Bad-e-Jamal are still well-known among the locals. Some residents even narrate these stories to tourists for a fee. These folk traditions have been passed down through generations.
The Kunhar River starts from Dudipatsar Lake and flows through Naran, Kaghan, and Balakot before merging with the Neelum and Jhelum Rivers near Patan. The Kunhar River’s name comes from “Koh” meaning mountain and “Nahar” meaning streams, thus signifying a river of streams. The valley, with its mountains, streams, lakes, waterfalls, springs, and glaciers, is a tourist haven from May to September. The maximum temperature in May is 11°C and the minimum is 3°C. From mid-July to the end of September, the route from Naran to Babusar Pass remains open.
Balakot
Balakot is a city in Mansehra District, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan, and is also a tehsil of Mansehra. It is the largest tehsil in the district, situated at an elevation of about 3226 feet above sea level. It is located approximately 6 hours from Islamabad, with a distance of around 194 kilometers. The distance from Mansehra to Balakot is about 50 kilometers, and Balakot covers an area of 10 square kilometers. The majority of the population in Balakot is from the Gujar community. The Member of National Assembly and Federal Minister for Religious Affairs, Sardar Muhammad Yousuf, belongs to this esteemed tribe. Hindko and Gujri are commonly spoken here. The Kunhar River, originating from Lake Lulusar, flows through the heart of Balakot before merging into the Jhelum River near Muzaffarabad. Near Balakot, there is a village with white stones called Chitta Batta and the Batrasi Forest. Balakot is historically significant due to the activities of Syed Ahmad Shaheed and Shah Ismail Shaheed’s Mujahideen movement. The shrines of these two great figures are located in the city. Balakot was the last stronghold of the Mujahideen movement and the center of their struggle against the Sikhs. On May 6, 1831, after a bloody battle, Syed Ahmad and Shah Ismail dyed the land of Balakot with their blood. The central mosque of the city, located beside the Kunhar River, is called the Syed Ahmad Shaheed Mosque. This mosque, destroyed in the 2005 earthquake, has been rebuilt. It had also suffered significant damage in the 1992 floods. It is accurate to say that the martyrs Syed Ahmad Shaheed and Syed Ismail Shaheed are the epitome of Balakot’s identity.
Balakot serves as the gateway to Kaghan Valley and is a center for education, culture, and industry. It houses the Musa Ka Musalla, the shrines of the martyrs, and the seat of Syed Jamal Ullah, as well as sulfur springs known for treating skin ailments. Additionally, there is a stone of love where lovers come to renew their affection.
Shogran
Shogran is situated at an elevation of approximately 7750 feet. On the way from Balakot to Naran, you will pass through Kiwai. The distance from Islamabad to Kiwai is 212 kilometers, from Balakot to Kiwai is about 23 kilometers, and from Shogran to Kiwai is about 32 kilometers. Shogran is about an hour’s drive from Balakot. There is a link road from Kiwai to Shogran, which is in poor condition but navigable by car, high-roof vehicles, and jeeps. The drive from Kiwai to Shogran offers breathtaking views. Shogran features a beautiful rest house and several hotels offering reasonably priced accommodation.
In the local language, “Sho” means “beautiful” and “gran” means “village,” collectively meaning “a beautiful and picturesque village.” “Sho” can also refer to “strong winds” in the local dialect, indicating a place dominated by breezy winds.
To the east of Shogran are the Siri and Makra peaks. To the west lies Musa Ka Musalla, inviting adventurous tourists to scale its rocky heights. To the north, you can explore the areas of Paberang, Mana Mandos, and Shinkiari, while the south is characterized by tranquil and dense forests. The nearby pastures and tourist spots such as Siri Paya, Mana Mandos, Manshi, Darshi, Sharan, and Shinkiari Hut are known for their serenity and beauty. The dense forests around Mageri, Malkandi, Jwanus, Lulani, Bering, and Khirat provide such dense cover that sunlight barely reaches the ground. The views from Shogran’s western side, especially from Shatran, are captivating. The Darshi forest is filled with romantic tales, and skilled artisans in Jareed and Parris create exquisite woodwork from walnut and deodar wood. These fine pieces are available as souvenirs in Shogran’s shops.
Even in summer, nights in Shogran are very cold, often requiring blankets or quilts. During the monsoon season, heavy rains lead to the growth of new herbs. Notable local herbs include Moski Bala, Ghori, Jabri (for fever), Sur Ganda, Chora, Neera, Patris, and Mah Mekh (for back pain).
Shogran offers a variety of interests for tourists including horse riding, hiking, trekking in the mountains, winter skiing, bird watching, and observing and collecting plants and herbs. Enjoying the breathtaking views of snow-capped peaks from hotel rooftops, experiencing the local way of life, traveling by jeep, feeling the grass underfoot on the slopes, admiring the beauty of flowers, relaxing in the winter sun, and witnessing the effects of monsoon rains are popular activities. Shogran’s green meadows offer an opportunity to camp and experience life under the open sky. It is unlikely that one can withstand the cold of a moonlit night in Shogran without feeling chilled.