As I descended from the Petigliano Castle made of rocky stones on the hill to reach the valley of Tuscany below, wildflowers growing on the paths were brushing against my legs. At the foot of this hill, I crossed a fast-flowing stream and began walking on a small path that led downward. Suddenly, I found myself in a confined chamber-like space.
I found myself in a trench surrounded by large blocks of tuff made from volcanic ash, rising up to about 25 meters. I was terrified, and I was not alone in being unsettled in such a cave. These underground paths have been associated with legends of demons and deities for centuries.
Elena Ronca, a hiking guide who leads tours in this Tuscan region and has lived here for 12 years, said, “When we were children, no one went there.” This was because there was little information about these paths and little knowledge about the Etruscan civilization that built them.
The ancient people left no maps or written records about these paths, and many routes were uninhabited, overgrown with large wild shrubs. However, in recent decades, archaeological discoveries in ancient tombs of central Italy and Corsica have revealed more about the Etruscans and their mysterious caves, which are said to connect the living world with the realm of the dead.
In simple terms, these were walled pathways used to travel to and from mountains and riverbanks. Although they are found in various parts of central Italy (where the Etruscan civilization flourished from 900 BC to 700 AD and later was absorbed into the Roman Empire), these caves are known locally as “Vicus.”
The caves in southern Tuscany’s areas of Pitigliano, Sorano, and Sovana are among the oldest and have remained in their original state. Ronca says, “It’s amazing that these caves are still in their original condition; the Etruscan inhabitants knew what they were doing.”
During my journey in this area, every cave I entered was different from the others. Some were narrow, with walls not much higher than me, and featured small steps. Others had turned into lush forests of ferns and moss, with tall walls and paths as wide as residential streets that could accommodate one or two cars.
Ronca explained that the caves were originally carved only a few feet deep using a rock-cutting technique. This technique, first used in ancient Egypt, involved drilling into tuff, inserting a piece of wood, and then filling the hole with water. “They would insert wood and the wet wood would expand and break the tuff blocks, repeating the process to make the road deep and long enough to the desired size. This method was not simple or easy.”
Over centuries, various kings and empires, including the Ostrogoths, Lombards, and Franks, made changes to the caves to suit their needs. Stairs were constructed from unknown locations and the trenches were deepened further, but the original system for water drainage was also maintained. On the path I traveled, I saw water flowing over the rocks through this system to prevent erosion and manage rainwater drainage.
Ronca says, “The Etruscans were very skilled engineers because they set boundaries on some marshes and made the land arable for farming.”
During my trip, I passed by slanted pits with rock monuments that appeared to be carved by human hands. These were Etruscan cemeteries where graves were dug deep and items like gold, food, and clothing were placed with the deceased for the afterlife.
Unfortunately, Etruscan graves in this area had been looted long ago. English writer D.H. Lawrence, after visiting Tuscany in 1920, wrote that “We should go see these graves or the museums where items from these graves are displayed.”
However, historians like Luca Nigrotti, who is also an archaeologist working with the Italian government, managed to find some pottery and paintings from that period. These artifacts might provide answers to some of our questions about the caves.
He says, “Most Etruscan graves have been looted since ancient times, but thieves only took gold. So it is very interesting for archaeologists because you still find artifacts from that period in these graves, which are really important for historical research.”
Traditional paintings found in Etruscan graves are not found in the Pitigliano region, as paint does not adhere well to rocky surfaces. However, after reviewing famous paintings in the cemetery located below Tarquinia, Nigrotti suggests that these caves might have been passageways for funeral processions of famous individuals from that era.
Some historians believe it is also possible that the Etruscans believed in an afterlife, and these caves served as a pathway to that life. Ronca says, “The Etruscans considered trees and rivers as gods, and their most important gods resided underground. So perhaps digging caves in rocks was a way for them to connect with these gods, but we cannot say for certain.”
Interestingly, artifacts from this period indicate that men and women were equal, which was different from the Roman era. Statues and paintings from this time depict women not only being invited to public gatherings and events but also actively participating.
Writings from this period show that women had rights to property and their mother’s name was used with their name, unlike the Roman era where women used their father’s or husband’s name.
The “Sarcophagus of the Spouses” statue found in the Etruscan cemetery in Servetria, Italy, indicates that men and women were equal during that period.
Ronca says, “Roman women were only considered the mother of the family, with authority and power only within the home. In contrast, during the Etruscan period, women were almost equal to men; they could lead a family or rule a town.”
For both Nigrotti and Ronca, the most intriguing theory suggested by artifacts and archaeological research is that the Etruscans had a much less environmental impact compared to the Romans, who often destroyed lands, diverted rivers, and cut rocks.
For example, their “Vicus” caves had a minimal environmental impact and were made from materials found in the same region. This might be because the Etruscans believed some natural elements (trees and rivers) were gods and part of their connection to nature. They say, “The Romans, on the other hand, had a more aggressive attitude towards the environment and made deeper changes in the landscape.”
Nigrotti says, “Looking at the marks of the Etruscan civilization, they had very minimal effects on the environment, and perhaps we can learn something from them.”
As my descent from the mountain ended in the city of Sovana, an ancient Etruscan city built long ago, I was surprised at how little I knew about the Etruscan civilization and their fascinating caves compared to what I knew about the Roman era.
According to Ronca, I should not feel bad about this because not only Italians but also Europeans and Americans have little knowledge about it. She says, “Schools still do not teach about the Etruscans; they are truly undervalued and given little importance.”
But changes are happening now. Ronca says that in the last eight to five years, especially during the COVID lockdown when Italians spent more time getting to know their region, the popularity of the “Vicus” and their cemeteries has increased.
Ronca says, “Until ten years ago, I had to force people to come here to show them these caves.” Perhaps soon these caves will become as popular as other Roman historical sites and attract attention, but if that happens, Ronca hopes we will make every effort to preserve them.
Ronca says, “These caves (Vicus) are unique; we cannot recreate them. Once they are gone, they will be gone forever.”
